An American in Tiraspol

I visited Trans-Dniester for the second time last summer and fell in love with the people. Having traveled to some of the really poor areas of the globe, it was quite a contrast to see the main "strip" in Tiraspol filled with healthy, fashionable young people, going to businesses, restaurants, cafes and bars, many of which could be right out of California or New York. By superficial appearances, it is hard to believe that this is supposed to be one of the poorest regions in Europe. Judging by the happiness, smiles and laughter, it is certainly a lot better off than rundown Moldova right next door. Of course, for the past seventeen years, the two sides have been governed independently of each other, by different governments and no overlap. And it shows.

Not speaking the language, or knowing the Cyrillic alphabet, traveling alone can be a little unnerving in the best of situations, let alone when the unexpected happens. While walking the streets, taking in the local sights, I'd hear muted conversations about the American. I don't wear jewelry, trendy clothes, or flash money, and always try to blend in as best as I can. Yet I was always pegged as the American in Tiraspol. Traveling alone, not speaking anything but English (and sign language for the deaf), hearing all the talk about the American going on behind my back did indeed make me paranoid.

I was also truly impressed with the beauty of the local women. Being fairly recently divorced, this did not escape my attention. I would try to converse with them, despite the language barrier, and often got a warm and friendly smile in return.

The vast majority of people of Tiraspol really are genuinely nice, and will come to the aid of a stranger no matter how pathetically lost and clueless they may look. Many had seemingly infinite patience with me when I'd start to ask questions using a mixture of English and sign language. Rationally, I have no idea at all why I kept trying the sign language for the deaf. I suppose the human brain just tries to grasp for any other means of communication available to it when one fails, no matter how inefficient and out of place it may be.

In addition to the people, I loved the smells of the open bazaar. In all my travels, it seems that the local smells are the best remembered and draw out the deepest memories of any destination. The smell of mutton cooking in Mongolia, wood burning in northern Africa, goat meat roasting in the Caribbean.

Although discos are not my thing, I did go there. Trans-Dniester may not be top of your list for hot European nightspots, but there is a modern, Western clubbing scene nevertheless. Despite a lack of formal recognition, life goes on in this country with a population the size of Montenegro's. The latest dance hits top the charts here, just like in the rest of Europe. Trans-Dniester is not that different from any other new and emerging country that just wants to have the right to seek a better life for itself and its citizens.

And the food - well, let us just say that restaurants were unbelievably good. This is something which I have later heard from other Americans who have been to Tiraspol: The food is awesome. Truly outstanding. Really as good as the very best I have had in other parts of the World.

I wish that I could have had more than a few days to spend in the city, but I had to return to work, and the life I left in the United States.

Politically, the many stories I had heard about Trans-Dniester really didn't seem to hold up. Anyone can leave if they want to, but most people are happy just living in their small little country. This is where they are planning their future. And they want their de facto independence to be recognized. There is nothing wrong with that. We in the United States wanted the same, a little more than 200 years ago.

If there is one negative, it is this: The border. Truth be told, the border situation is a little strange. I know that this is the result of hostilities from the neighbors, but there still has to be a way to fix it. It would be rather tense for a traveler that was used to "sterile" packaged vacations, but once in the city, though life is difficult for many locals, there is a real peace, harmony, and a sense of a society that works. There is no racial tension or ethnic strife. Everyone I spoke to agree that independence is the only way forward at this point in time. Whatever conflict there is comes from the outside. I remember going to the train station to use the bathroom during the embargo when no trains were running. Seeing the empty tracks, I was saddened by what a hateful neighbor will do to shun a small people that just want its freedom.

American citizen Bob Burton is an avid world traveller and political observer. Having been to Tiraspol twice already, he is now planning to go a third time this year and establish closer personal bonds with the inhabitants of Pridnestrovie's capital. He can be contacted by email at randombobbob@gmail.com

See also:
» American recognition of Pridnestrovie? It's already happening...